Calle de Poulo to Sigueiro

Saturday 14th

A final good bye to the wonderful folk at the Mesón Novo and back to the Bar Cruceiro to continue walking. The bar was shut (9am) but we had our sellos yesterday and we had breakfast and coffee before we set out.
It was quite cold at first and stayed very cool and cloudy. Nice for walking though. Trees and tracks, with one long straight stretch through the trees which actually felt very hard on the feet.
We had our 'lunch' in a bus stop with a convenient seat, ham and tomato bought from Meson do Vento, along with oranges, croissants etc at various stages as needed.
We reached Sigueiro in time for lunch (Spanish time) at Hostal Miras. (11kms from the 'Cruceiro') A very good menu del dia - Vegetable soup and braised veal. Our room looked out onto the road junction and after the quiet of other nights the traffic was a bit noisy.
After a siesta we walked around the town and to the old bridge over the river. There were a few other pilgrims to talk to, most were pushing on to reach Santiago that evening. Anticipating that places are closed on Sundays we visited the supermarket to stock up on food for the road - croissants, coca cola, oranges, apples - and for tea - bread and cheese and a can of peaches. We didn't eat the peaches so they joined the food for the road.

There are many wild flowers along the Way, including Purple Bugloss and Wallflower Cabbage .

The sheep were being driven across the road. We wondered if they were taken into the shed behind the house for milking.

This long straight stretch of track was through eucalyptus plantations. We found it quite hard on the feet

A waymark on the way into Sigueiro

The bridge at Sigueiro is on Roman foundations, with mediaeval arches and a modern top

At the end of the bridge the waymarks lead left out of the town

Mesón do Vento to Calle de Poulo

Friday 13th

We walked to Calle de Poulo and the Bar Cruceiro (13.5km).
The first bar, by the 'Pilgrim' statue was closed when we tried the door, but opened while we were taking photos. (We think they heard us.) So back we went for cafe con leche and were soon joined by 3 young Spanish pilgrims. We saw them twice more at Bar Novo in Buscas, where we all had bocadillos (sandwiches), and again at the 'Cruceiro' in Calle de Poulo. They too were taking their time and not rushing.

A good mix of road and track and we passed the 40km mark on today's route. It was lovely walking weather again with sunshine, and a breeze to keep us cool.
Back to Mesón do Vento for a final night. In fact we probably could have walked easily into Ordés but had already arranged to go back and we needed to pay the bill!!

Stone house. Is the rounded part an old oven?

Terry walking uphill. I had been taking photos, but soon caught up

View from the hills

The pilgrim sculpture by the Cafe/Bar O Porto near Seixo

The cruceiro at Buscas

The Bar Cruceiro at Calle de Poulo and pilgrims resting there

Casa Julia (Vilacoba) to Mesón do Vento

Thursday 12th

Back to the bus stop below Casa Julia to walk to Mesón do Vento. (13kms total) We were carrying our packs plus the vital food and water for the day.

It took us 50 minutes to walk from the fuente to the top of the steep stretch mentioned in the guide, but that included stopping briefly at the church and at the view points to take photos. We managed the steepest part of the hill, to the farm buildings at the top, without difficulty.

We sat in the picnic area for a drink and snack bar, and put our fleeces on to keep the wind off as it was chilly. The weather was cloudy and breezy all day, lovely for walking. Then on to Vizoño to the cafe/bar for a café con leche.
We ate 'lunch' on the hilltops and then walked into Mesón do Vento and the 'La Ruta' for a steak before going back into the Mesón Novo.
Lovely hot showers again and we asked if we could use the line to dry our washing.

Shrine of San Paio in the wall of the modern church of San Tome de Vilacoba

View from part way up the hill before the steepest, wooded, section

Old buildings near the cafe/bar at Vizoño

Foxgloves and broom

The granite slabs make a good raised pathway and bridge.

The butterfly was on the track at the far side.

Betanzos to Casa Julia (Vilacoba)

Wednesday 11th

We walked from Betanzos to Casa Julia at Vilacoba. It was 19.6kms to the Sanctuario de Pelayo at the bus stop just below the Casa Julia, which was closed.
We had left Betanzos with food and water for the day as advised in the guide, and it was definitely needed. It was very warm and humid. We had drunk 3lts of water between us by the time we reached Vilacoba, plus sucking oranges.
We ate an early lunch outside the church of San Esteban in Cos, where we talked to a lovely Spanish couple who kindly signed our credenciales as we couldn't see anyone around for a sello.
Then we followed the Camino along forest paths, stopping at the bridge at Presedo for a snack (croissants, apples and another orange.
We passed the 54.9km mojon (most have lost their plates), then along tracks again reaching the Casa Julia at 3.30. We phoned Méson Novo as arranged and sat in the shade at the bus stop beyond the Casa Julia. Not long to wait and we were soon shown our room and having drinks and then a siesta.
The folk at Meson Novo are wonderful and returned us to the bus stop, plus packs and supplies, to continue walking next day.

Later along the route we met folk who said that it is possible to sleep in the Centro Social in Cos, or to go to the Bar Zapatero in Leiro and ask for the key to the Colegio where there are 4 beds.

We stopped at San Esteban de Cos and sat on the church wall to eat our very early lunch (11.30am)

The 'Hottentot figs' made a splash of colour along the path

The one really muddy patch we passed had a good stepping stone and then dry path again beyond

The wide grassy track turned the corner and became very narrow.

Miño to Betanzos

Tuesday 10th

Miño to Betanzos (13.4kms) is also uphill but much better than Monday out of Pontedeume even if the last stretch into Betanzos itself is so steep.
The Camino passes through woods and also has some lovely views. The road crosses the Ponte do Porco over the ria Lambre where there was a good view under the bridge. Further along we passed an old house with a lovely garden. The drinking fountain, dated 1884, is one of several that we passed along the Camino. Today was a mix of track and road, with very welcome shade at times.
There was a steep hill down towards the Ria Mandeo and the old gateway to Betanzos. Then it was all uphill again until we reached the entrance to the main plaza.
We stayed in the 'Chocolateria' which seemed a bit run down. However with use of the kitchen area and washing line we were quite happy.
Lunch in town and then another DIY supper. We also bought some food for Wednesday as we could keep it in the fridge overnight. A very warm and humid day so the washing wasn't really dry enough to pack at bedtime. we hung it up to air off overnight.
In view of the weather forecast and learning that the hotel we had hoped to use in Abegondo was an 11km walk to finish up only 5km out of Betanzos we decided it was best to call ahead to Meson do Vento after all, rather than making a detour off the Camino.

Rio Lambre at Ponte do Porco

and

Old house

Fuente - drinking fountain - dated 1884

Shaded road near Betanzos

The old gateway into Betanzos

and

Market stalls in the main plaza

Pontedeume to Miño

Monday 9th

We have taken 3 days to walk from Ferrol to Miño, by Naron and Pontedeume.
beautiful scenery, some lovely churches. Some very steep hills, especially out of Pontedeume!!!!
The weather has been kind, only raining badly when we were inside eating. A few showers needing ponchos on and off, but nothing too bad while we were actually walking.
The internet cafe in Miño is a bonus which we found as we were walking round town near the albergue.

The hill out of Pontedeume is a killer!!!! Granite setts and tarmac for 1½kms up a very steep hill and round steep corners. The Camino then passes through wonderful smelling eucalyptus woods and finally downhill into Miño. 12kms total today.
We phoned the hospitaleros to say that we were having lunch and they met us at the albergue at 14.30 to book us in (5 euros) and give us our disposable sheet and pillow case.
After a siesta we went down into the kitchen and were joined by another couple, from Extremadura. We went for a walk and found an internet cafe then bought bread, cheese and a tin of peaches for tea. Back at the albergue a group of 6 were also arriving who said they had come from Ferrol that morning. At least one other pilgrim arrived as we went to bed. Quite a merry throng, but a very quiet night's sleep. The only noise was from an enormous mosquito, which only got in one nip before I got it.

Open countryside and the ancient bridge at Ponte Baxoi

Waiting for the hospitalero at the albergue


View across the ria from the dormitory window

Ferrol to Narón; Narón to Pontedeume

Sunday 8th

Being Sunday the first open cafe we passed was the Café Bar Hermida about 4kms from Narón. Excellent cafe con leche and a free gift from the lovely lady behind the bar:- a notebook and little pencil with a rubber. We accepted one between us rather than one each.
Our next coffee was at the motorway cafe which we found friendly. There was very heavy rain while we were inside and it was still damp enough to get our ponchos out briefly when we left. We stopped for lunch in Cabañas as places were begining to close. A good decision as it absolutely poured with rain while we were inside. It was dry again by the time we left to cross the bridge into Pontedeume where we found the Cafe Bar Norte, just closing, and a bed for the night. (18kms today on the pedometer)
There is a new albergue, we later found, to the right of the bridge in the middle of a long stone building with several doors. However as it didn't open until 7.30pm we were glad to be in the hostal.

Giant waymark on a tank

Stone bridge over a stream

Pontedeume
The ria
and
The Andrade Tower

Saturday 7th

To Naron, 12.8kms.
There are spectacular views across the ria. We also walked through our first eucalyptus woods. We had a snack at the cruceiro + Cristo by the church of San Martin de Xubia and lunch (Spanish time) in Naron, before it started to rain! We had phoned ahead and stayed in the Hotel Kensington - almost opposite the FEVE station of Xubia we had passed through yesterday.

Views across the ria

San Martin de Xubia
and
Track through the eucalyptus

Days 4 - 6

Friday May 6th Ribadeo to Ferrol

The FEVE again and on to Ferrol itself. Here we went to the Pension Zahara and were lucky to get a room as Ferrol was very busy at the start of the weekend.
After siesta we went to the tourist information office and had our credenciales stamped for the start of our Camino walk. They stamped it for Saturday as that was when we planned to leave. However we went round to the harbour, found the first waymarks and followed them round part of the route (3kms) before going back to the hotel. So we have actually started on our way already.



View from the train and the FEVE in Ferrol station

Thursday May 5th Oviedo to Ribadeo

Back on the FEVE to go up to the coast and part of the 7 hour journey to Ferrol. We found the Cafe Garden which is near the station and has 'habitaciones' (rooms). It also has internet access. (The supermarket opposite provided supplies for the next stage of the journey.)
Lunch, siesta and then a walk around town to look across the ría. There are a number of churches and chapels including this one on the cliff top.

Wednesday May 4th Oviedo

We took the local bus (N0 10) to Naranco to see the Romanesque chapels. Sta Maria del Naranco was built as a hall with a chapel below, then became a church in later years. San Miguel de Lillo is undergoing restoration and is shrouded in scaffolding and protective sheeting.
Then in the sfternoon we visited the museum in Oviedo itself. Supper in the Cafe Cristina and packing ready for an early start on Thursday.

Gold bracelet and bone carving in Oviedo Museum of Archaeology - prehistory section