Return to the Camino

Camino in 2012

2012-01-01T19:45:00.002Z

Happy New Year

Our plans for 2012 are continuing as is our training. We are hoping for good weather on the Primitivo this year as we expect that this is the last time that we will walk this route as pilgrims. Future visits may be along or to some of the pilgrim routes and sites of northern Spain rather than to Santiago. We hope to complete the walk from Tineo through to Santiago in about 18 days as we want to have time to visit places as we walk rather than simply walking through in the shortest time.

The sign for the stage between Tineo and Pola de Allande which we expect to walk over 2 days. Meanwhile we have time (several months) to continue with the preparations and training walks to ensure that we are as fit as possible before we set off.

Return to the Primitivo

2011-11-09T20:24:00.004Z

We continue to make plans for a return to the Camino Primitivo in 2012. We now have our tickets to Spain and our Credenciales, to start in Tineo, and we are planning a rough guide to each day. This helps to work out how long we will need to reach Santiago as well as where we can find accomodation, food etc along the route. We are using the CSJ (Confraternity of St James) guide, as Terry did in 2009. There are updates, more accomodation in some places, less in others.
We intend to use the ferry and the FEVE again and finally the ALSA bus to reach Tineo before setting off to walk. It is over 200km from Tineo to Santiago through the mountains. Hopefully we will reach Santiago with time to see some more of western Galicia, maybe Padron or Coruña before heading for home again.
Meanwhile we keep walking locally to keep ourselves in practise.

Return to the Camino 2012

2011-08-23T16:31:00.001+01:00

We are begining to make plans for a return to the Camino Primitivo sometime next year.

So far we have been looking at those packing lists and weights (again!!!) and the time we think it will take for us to walk it together. This is based on the time it took Terry in 2009 and the time it took us on the Camino Inglés this year. The distances covered each day will depend on the available accomodation.

Our plan would be to start in Tineo, where we turned back in 2010, and go through to Lugo, then turn down to Palas de Rei, rather than go the more remote way to Melide.

Final thoughts for 2011

2011-07-15T16:42:00.006+01:00

The 'Return to the Camino 2011' photos and thoughts are all posted and we have had time to reflect on our time on the Camino Inglés. We are thinking of returning again some time next year to walk more of the Camino Primitivo. Starting where we turned back last year, at Tineo, we would try to reach Lugo and maybe even Santiago itself. If not next year, then a further return for the final 100kms from Lugo to Santiago might be needed. We will have to see..............

Shell waymark, in the pavement, near the Cathedral in Santiago

The Travellers Return

2011-05-28T19:45:00.002+01:00

We are safely home from our travels. A wonderful time with lovely walking weather. We travelled, as planned, by FEVE from Santander to Ferrol via Oviedo and Ribadeo taking 4 days to reach Ferrol. It then took 9 days to walk from Ferrol to Santiago. Unforgettable experience!!!!!!
Then we took a bus to Lugo and onto Ribadeo to catch the FEVE back again by stages to Santander. With sightseeing in Santiago and onwards that all took another 10 days.
The return crossing was very rough and we are finding England rather cold. The temperature in Santander was 32C and we have had over 20C much of the time with lows of around 15C. (Oviedo was only 9C one evening.)
We have many thoughts and photos. These are now all posted and can be found under the headings for May

The final day - Santander

2011-05-28T17:28:00.035+01:00

Our final day was spent in Santander as the ferry sailed at 9.00pm
Time for a walk along the Sardineros beach and for a paddle (Valerie). Then we collected our rucksacks from the hotel and went into town for supper before going to the ferry. This was the hottest and most humid afternoon we had, still 32C at 6.00pm.
There were kites flying over the plaza and a storm building over the mountains. The ferry sailed on time and straight into fairly rough seas

View along the Sardineros beach

Pilgrim paddling

A black kite flying over the plaza near the ferry-port

Last view of the mountains from the ferry

Llanes

2011-05-28T09:47:00.007+01:00

After walking along the cliffs we went back into the old town. The tiled house is just by the Hotel Gran Paraiso where we were staying again this year. The old palace is having work to stabilise it as much had already fallen down. There is a lovely Romanesque church and a number of interesting old houses nearby. Some of the houses are being restored, including the one with a detached kitchen, joined by an archway passage, to isolate any fire risk.
After just one night here it was time for the FEVE again to Santander

A Casa Indianos and the old palace

The Romanesque church

House with separate kitchen joined by the archway

Restoration work on the house, the interior view is through the left hand doorway.

Ribadeo to Llanes

2011-05-28T09:45:00.005+01:00

From Ribadeo we travelled by the FEVE to Oviedo again and then on to Llanes. The Oviedo-Llanes train had a problem and limped its way along. Inspected at El Barrón it went on to the next station where a relief train was waiting for us. So after a change of train we made up some time arriving in Llanes in time for some lunch.

We went for a walk along the cliffs, so different from last year when it was very stormy. Instead it was warm and sunny with lizards running along the stones

View from the cliff top across town towards the mountains

The cliffs in the distance are where the 'bufones' were seen last year

A lizard sunning itself

A Five-spot Burnet

Lugo to Ribadeo

2011-05-27T16:01:00.018+01:00

The Arriva bus to Ribadeo left Lugo at the time given at the bus station, 10 minutes earlier than the time given at the information office. It was a good journey with lovely views, but it is difficult to take good photos from the bus.
In Ribadeo we went to the Cafe/restaurante/hotel Ros Mary on Calle San Fransisco. We were there on our way through to Ferrol and their Platos Combinados was very good. We also returned to the Cafe Garden for a room for the night, having booked ahead by phone this time. The usual 'wash clothes and siesta' before shopping for tea and for the Sunday travel on the FEVE. Then a good look around town especially the old part.

On the Sunday morning the Trans Cantabrica was in the station. This travels overnight and stays in various towns en route each day for the passengers to go sightseeing.

The Gaudi style architecture in Ribadeo and the chapel of the Convent church of Sta Maria do Campo.

The TransCantabrica train in the station at Ribadeo.

The inside of the Pullman dining coach

Lugo 2

2011-05-20T16:10:00.005+01:00

We had planned to go to the Provincial Museum but it was closed for the day. Instead we found the museum 'House of the Mosaics' with its mosaic pavements and hypocaust. These are in situ at the house of Oceanus beneath Rúa Dr Castro 22 and were discovered during excavations in 1999.
Lugo - House of Mosaics

We checked our bus time to Ribadeo at the bus station. It leaves 10 minutes earlier than we had previously been told. A further walk around the town and we found an internet cafe.

Lugo

2011-05-20T16:09:00.017+01:00

Thursday 19th

We walked down to the Roman Baths under the Hotel Balneario y Termas de Lugo. This is near the bridge, built on Roman foundations, and Camino out of town. (A good coffee stop for those walking the Camino.) The overpowering sulphur smell of the baths will be remembered for a long time. The Roman baths themselves are fascinating.
There were frogs, dozens of them, among the weeds at the river side, but almost impossible to photograph. Then it was time to walk back up the hill again, another steep one!

In the afternoon we walked the 2kms right round the walls of Lugo.

This Casa Indianos near the hotel has not yet been repaired, many are very dilapidated while others have already been restored

The old wall at the rear of the Cathedral has re-used older stones, some of which are carved and some may even be Roman

The road and the Camino cross the bridge, which is built on Roman foundations with mediaeval piers

The Roman baths under the modern spa hotel

The yellow and green frogs can be seen if you look very carefully at the full size image

The footpath at the top of the Roman walls of Lugo, near the one remaining section of tower

Santiago to Lugo

2011-05-20T16:09:00.016+01:00

Wednesday 18th

The Empresa Freire bus runs between Santiago and Lugo. We walked up to the bus station and caught the 11.00am 'direct' bus to Lugo. The other leaves at the same time but wanders around the villages en route.
We had used the internet in Santiago to book into the Hotel Metropol in Lugo for 3 nights. We stayed here on the way home from Terry's Camino in 2009. To our delight we were upgraded from a double room to a double with a separate kitchen and dining area - effectively a small apartment, still for the same price. Lovely to be able to store food in the fridge and have a table to eat at. Plates and cutlery provided and also some pots and pans to use on the 2 ring hob, which we didn't use. Plenty of hot water too for showers and washing our clothes, which hung in the shower to dry.

In the afternoon we visited the 'Walls' Museum and the Cathedral before going to the Café del Centro for a steak and salad.

The Roman Eagle, sign of Lugo's Roman past

The kitchen in our rooms at the Hotel Metropol

The north door of the Cathedral in Lugo, with the carving of Christ as Ruler of the Universe

The interior of the Cathedral showing the apse and the altar with its silver reredos and giant monstrance

Santiago de Compostela

2011-05-17T16:25:00.018+01:00

Tuesday 17th

After some sightseeing we returned to the Cathedral to hear ourselves 'read out' as having walked the Camino Inglés. Ourselves and 2 pilgrims from Italy. Several pilgrims from other countries and on other routes, but no others at all from England.

Outside again we found that the celebrations for the Dia de Galicia were taking place, including bagpipes and dancing in local costume.
More sightseeing in the afternoon, including the Cathedral museum and up onto the balony overlooking the square. We had a coffee in the Reyes Catolicos. We have to say that the service is better in the Dakar, who also have a delicious Tarta de Santiago. This evening, while having supper in the Dakar, we actually had a short thunderstorm - the last rain of our Camino and it has all been when we were inside.
We are in the internet cafe again to post this and to book a hotel in Lugo for tomorrow.

So our time on the Camino, for this year, is over. We return home via Lugo, Ribadeo, Oviedo, Llanes and Santander

Los Reyes Catolicos from the Cathedral balcony

Giant shell carving in the Cathedral wall

A statue of San Roque and a Mapa Mundi, both are in the Pilgrims' Museum

Gallego pipes and dancers in the square

Our hostal was at the far end of this old street, Rúa da Algalia de Abaixo.

Monday 16th

We had time to look around Santiago for a while before the Pilgrims´Mass at mid-day. Pilgrims continued to arrive and to walk up the steps, behind the statue of St James, to give him the traditional hug.
The Pilgrims' Mass itself was wonderful. We sat in the nave under the organ and the congregation around us really joined in with the responses. They were taught to us, by the nun who is the cantor, before the service started.

After the service it was time for lunch and siesta, needed as the weather is now quite hot. Then we had time for sightseeing and found an internet cafe. There are very few of these so much will now have to wait until we are actually at home and can fill in the gaps.

Waiting for the service to begin.

There is a pilgrim behind the statue of St James

The organ pipes are horizontal

Sigueiro to Santiago

2011-05-16T19:02:00.009+01:00

Sunday 15th

We did it!! in 9 days from Ferrol. Probably a record for the slowest time. The weather has been very kind to us with great walking conditions.

It was sunny with a cool wind for our last day. We had coffee in the cafe/bar near the hostal but they had no croissants, so we set off to the nearby church to eat ours washed down with some Coca Cola. There was no-one around to ask for a sello until a visitor to the church came past and kindly signed our credenciales.
Then it was time to set off again along a mix of road and track, sun, shade and a cool wind all of which made walking pleasant. We were very glad of the food and water we had with us as, being Sunday, the cafés on the outskirts of Santiago were closed. It was warming up too when we stopped in a shady area near some houses and ate the can of peaches. Then the final walk into Santiago arriving at the Cathedral at 13.30. After visiting St James and the shrine we went on to the Pilgrims' Office and received our Compostelas - very moving.
Lunch and then to the Hostal Linares, a good very quiet hostal/pension, which Terry had booked on Saturday night. (A total of 20kms from hostal to hostal) After a siesta we went out sightseeing and found the Café Dakar. The best food in town!!

So it has taken 9 days to walk Ferrol to Santiago, and about 900 photos. We need time to sort them out and all the memories they bring.

Shadows in the morning sun

The Red-rumped Swallow makes a tunnel into its nest. This one was below the motorway bridge

Another hill to climb? Yes eventually

A Galician hórreo (granary)

More sheep, wandering up the hill, with their shepherd

Over the hill top and there was a Scarce Swallowtail feeding on Asphodel

Our first real view of the cathedral. The main tower is shrouded in scaffolding and net

The final stretch downhill on the cobbled road through the old town

The Cathedral from the Plaza del Obradoiro

The nave was almost empty when we arrived

Calle de Poulo to Sigueiro

2011-05-16T19:00:00.005+01:00

Saturday 14th

A final good bye to the wonderful folk at the Mesón Novo and back to the Bar Cruceiro to continue walking. The bar was shut (9am) but we had our sellos yesterday and we had breakfast and coffee before we set out.
It was quite cold at first and stayed very cool and cloudy. Nice for walking though. Trees and tracks, with one long straight stretch through the trees which actually felt very hard on the feet.
We had our 'lunch' in a bus stop with a convenient seat, ham and tomato bought from Meson do Vento, along with oranges, croissants etc at various stages as needed.
We reached Sigueiro in time for lunch (Spanish time) at Hostal Miras. (11kms from the 'Cruceiro') A very good menu del dia - Vegetable soup and braised veal. Our room looked out onto the road junction and after the quiet of other nights the traffic was a bit noisy.
After a siesta we walked around the town and to the old bridge over the river. There were a few other pilgrims to talk to, most were pushing on to reach Santiago that evening. Anticipating that places are closed on Sundays we visited the supermarket to stock up on food for the road - croissants, coca cola, oranges, apples - and for tea - bread and cheese and a can of peaches. We didn't eat the peaches so they joined the food for the road.

There are many wild flowers along the Way, including Purple Bugloss and Wallflower Cabbage .

The sheep were being driven across the road. We wondered if they were taken into the shed behind the house for milking.

This long straight stretch of track was through eucalyptus plantations. We found it quite hard on the feet

A waymark on the way into Sigueiro

The bridge at Sigueiro is on Roman foundations, with mediaeval arches and a modern top

At the end of the bridge the waymarks lead left out of the town

Mesón do Vento to Calle de Poulo

2011-05-16T18:57:00.018+01:00

Friday 13th

We walked to Calle de Poulo and the Bar Cruceiro (13.5km).
The first bar, by the 'Pilgrim' statue was closed when we tried the door, but opened while we were taking photos. (We think they heard us.) So back we went for cafe con leche and were soon joined by 3 young Spanish pilgrims. We saw them twice more at Bar Novo in Buscas, where we all had bocadillos (sandwiches), and again at the 'Cruceiro' in Calle de Poulo. They too were taking their time and not rushing.

A good mix of road and track and we passed the 40km mark on today's route. It was lovely walking weather again with sunshine, and a breeze to keep us cool.
Back to Mesón do Vento for a final night. In fact we probably could have walked easily into Ordés but had already arranged to go back and we needed to pay the bill!!

Stone house. Is the rounded part an old oven?

Terry walking uphill. I had been taking photos, but soon caught up

View from the hills

The pilgrim sculpture by the Cafe/Bar O Porto near Seixo

The cruceiro at Buscas

The Bar Cruceiro at Calle de Poulo and pilgrims resting there

Casa Julia (Vilacoba) to Mesón do Vento

2011-05-16T18:56:00.020+01:00

Thursday 12th

Back to the bus stop below Casa Julia to walk to Mesón do Vento. (13kms total) We were carrying our packs plus the vital food and water for the day.

It took us 50 minutes to walk from the fuente to the top of the steep stretch mentioned in the guide, but that included stopping briefly at the church and at the view points to take photos. We managed the steepest part of the hill, to the farm buildings at the top, without difficulty.

We sat in the picnic area for a drink and snack bar, and put our fleeces on to keep the wind off as it was chilly. The weather was cloudy and breezy all day, lovely for walking. Then on to Vizoño to the cafe/bar for a café con leche.
We ate 'lunch' on the hilltops and then walked into Mesón do Vento and the 'La Ruta' for a steak before going back into the Mesón Novo.
Lovely hot showers again and we asked if we could use the line to dry our washing.

Shrine of San Paio in the wall of the modern church of San Tome de Vilacoba

View from part way up the hill before the steepest, wooded, section

Old buildings near the cafe/bar at Vizoño

Foxgloves and broom

The granite slabs make a good raised pathway and bridge.

The butterfly was on the track at the far side.

Betanzos to Casa Julia (Vilacoba)

2011-05-16T18:56:00.012+01:00

Wednesday 11th

We walked from Betanzos to Casa Julia at Vilacoba. It was 19.6kms to the Sanctuario de Pelayo at the bus stop just below the Casa Julia, which was closed.
We had left Betanzos with food and water for the day as advised in the guide, and it was definitely needed. It was very warm and humid. We had drunk 3lts of water between us by the time we reached Vilacoba, plus sucking oranges.
We ate an early lunch outside the church of San Esteban in Cos, where we talked to a lovely Spanish couple who kindly signed our credenciales as we couldn't see anyone around for a sello.
Then we followed the Camino along forest paths, stopping at the bridge at Presedo for a snack (croissants, apples and another orange.
We passed the 54.9km mojon (most have lost their plates), then along tracks again reaching the Casa Julia at 3.30. We phoned Méson Novo as arranged and sat in the shade at the bus stop beyond the Casa Julia. Not long to wait and we were soon shown our room and having drinks and then a siesta.
The folk at Meson Novo are wonderful and returned us to the bus stop, plus packs and supplies, to continue walking next day.

Later along the route we met folk who said that it is possible to sleep in the Centro Social in Cos, or to go to the Bar Zapatero in Leiro and ask for the key to the Colegio where there are 4 beds.

We stopped at San Esteban de Cos and sat on the church wall to eat our very early lunch (11.30am)

The 'Hottentot figs' made a splash of colour along the path

The one really muddy patch we passed had a good stepping stone and then dry path again beyond

The wide grassy track turned the corner and became very narrow.

Miño to Betanzos

2011-05-16T18:55:00.009+01:00

Tuesday 10th

Miño to Betanzos (13.4kms) is also uphill but much better than Monday out of Pontedeume even if the last stretch into Betanzos itself is so steep.
The Camino passes through woods and also has some lovely views. The road crosses the Ponte do Porco over the ria Lambre where there was a good view under the bridge. Further along we passed an old house with a lovely garden. The drinking fountain, dated 1884, is one of several that we passed along the Camino. Today was a mix of track and road, with very welcome shade at times.
There was a steep hill down towards the Ria Mandeo and the old gateway to Betanzos. Then it was all uphill again until we reached the entrance to the main plaza.
We stayed in the 'Chocolateria' which seemed a bit run down. However with use of the kitchen area and washing line we were quite happy.
Lunch in town and then another DIY supper. We also bought some food for Wednesday as we could keep it in the fridge overnight. A very warm and humid day so the washing wasn't really dry enough to pack at bedtime. we hung it up to air off overnight.
In view of the weather forecast and learning that the hotel we had hoped to use in Abegondo was an 11km walk to finish up only 5km out of Betanzos we decided it was best to call ahead to Meson do Vento after all, rather than making a detour off the Camino.

Rio Lambre at Ponte do Porco

and

Old house

Fuente - drinking fountain - dated 1884

Shaded road near Betanzos

The old gateway into Betanzos

and

Market stalls in the main plaza

Pontedeume to Miño

2011-05-09T16:41:00.008+01:00

Monday 9th

We have taken 3 days to walk from Ferrol to Miño, by Naron and Pontedeume.
beautiful scenery, some lovely churches. Some very steep hills, especially out of Pontedeume!!!!
The weather has been kind, only raining badly when we were inside eating. A few showers needing ponchos on and off, but nothing too bad while we were actually walking.
The internet cafe in Miño is a bonus which we found as we were walking round town near the albergue.

The hill out of Pontedeume is a killer!!!! Granite setts and tarmac for 1½kms up a very steep hill and round steep corners. The Camino then passes through wonderful smelling eucalyptus woods and finally downhill into Miño. 12kms total today.
We phoned the hospitaleros to say that we were having lunch and they met us at the albergue at 14.30 to book us in (5 euros) and give us our disposable sheet and pillow case.
After a siesta we went down into the kitchen and were joined by another couple, from Extremadura. We went for a walk and found an internet cafe then bought bread, cheese and a tin of peaches for tea. Back at the albergue a group of 6 were also arriving who said they had come from Ferrol that morning. At least one other pilgrim arrived as we went to bed. Quite a merry throng, but a very quiet night's sleep. The only noise was from an enormous mosquito, which only got in one nip before I got it.

Open countryside and the ancient bridge at Ponte Baxoi

Waiting for the hospitalero at the albergue

View across the ria from the dormitory window

Ferrol to Narón; Narón to Pontedeume

2011-05-09T16:35:00.027+01:00

Sunday 8th

Being Sunday the first open cafe we passed was the Café Bar Hermida about 4kms from Narón. Excellent cafe con leche and a free gift from the lovely lady behind the bar:- a notebook and little pencil with a rubber. We accepted one between us rather than one each.
Our next coffee was at the motorway cafe which we found friendly. There was very heavy rain while we were inside and it was still damp enough to get our ponchos out briefly when we left. We stopped for lunch in Cabañas as places were begining to close. A good decision as it absolutely poured with rain while we were inside. It was dry again by the time we left to cross the bridge into Pontedeume where we found the Cafe Bar Norte, just closing, and a bed for the night. (18kms today on the pedometer)
There is a new albergue, we later found, to the right of the bridge in the middle of a long stone building with several doors. However as it didn't open until 7.30pm we were glad to be in the hostal.

Giant waymark on a tank

Stone bridge over a stream

Pontedeume
The ria
and
The Andrade Tower

Saturday 7th

To Naron, 12.8kms.
There are spectacular views across the ria. We also walked through our first eucalyptus woods. We had a snack at the cruceiro + Cristo by the church of San Martin de Xubia and lunch (Spanish time) in Naron, before it started to rain! We had phoned ahead and stayed in the Hotel Kensington - almost opposite the FEVE station of Xubia we had passed through yesterday.

Views across the ria

San Martin de Xubia
and
Track through the eucalyptus

Days 4 - 6

2011-05-09T16:34:00.012+01:00

Friday May 6th Ribadeo to Ferrol

The FEVE again and on to Ferrol itself. Here we went to the Pension Zahara and were lucky to get a room as Ferrol was very busy at the start of the weekend.
After siesta we went to the tourist information office and had our credenciales stamped for the start of our Camino walk. They stamped it for Saturday as that was when we planned to leave. However we went round to the harbour, found the first waymarks and followed them round part of the route (3kms) before going back to the hotel. So we have actually started on our way already.

View from the train and the FEVE in Ferrol station

Thursday May 5th Oviedo to Ribadeo

Back on the FEVE to go up to the coast and part of the 7 hour journey to Ferrol. We found the Cafe Garden which is near the station and has 'habitaciones' (rooms). It also has internet access. (The supermarket opposite provided supplies for the next stage of the journey.)
Lunch, siesta and then a walk around town to look across the ría. There are a number of churches and chapels including this one on the cliff top.

Wednesday May 4th Oviedo

We took the local bus (N0 10) to Naranco to see the Romanesque chapels. Sta Maria del Naranco was built as a hall with a chapel below, then became a church in later years. San Miguel de Lillo is undergoing restoration and is shrouded in scaffolding and protective sheeting.
Then in the sfternoon we visited the museum in Oviedo itself. Supper in the Cafe Cristina and packing ready for an early start on Thursday.

Gold bracelet and bone carving in Oviedo Museum of Archaeology - prehistory section

Day 3

2011-05-05T18:58:00.002+01:00

Tuesday May 3rd FEVE to Oviedo

We left Santander on the morning train to Oviedo. We passed the Camino del Norte and saw a fellow pilgrim.
In Pedroso we had to change trains onto the one coming from Oviedo. Its passengers transferred to our train and we were on our way again.
Once in Oviedo we booked into the Hostal Oviedo by the station and then went to the Cathedral to visit the Camara Santa and have our credenciales (Pilgrim passports) stamped. Time for some sightseeing before supper in the Cafe Cristina below the hostal.

Days 1 and 2 -Travelling

2011-05-05T18:55:00.002+01:00

Monday May 2nd

We arrived in Santander and went to look for lunch before going to our hotel Jardin Secreto (The Secret Garden). They have created a rooftop patio with astraturf and pot plants and it is very attractive. The rooms are amazing, very new, with marble tiles and wood floors.

Sunday May 1st

Having travelled into Plymouth by bus we had lunch there at a Tapas bar called La Tasca. We then walked round to the ferry port for the ferry to Santander. As we arrived the ferry was just reversing into the dock so we were able to have a really good view of her. We sailed on time and had a really good crossing and very calm.

Camino Inglés 2011

2011-04-20T20:22:00.000+01:00

We have our ferry tickets and are ready to go, not long to wait now. Our new boots are broken in, our bags are packed, we have our CSJ guide book and 'credenciales'. All we need is a good ferry crossing and FEVE journey from Santander to Oviedo, then on to Ribadeo and finally to Ferrol where we start to walk.
The family will hold the fort while we are away and we will add to the blog when we can, and when we get home again. Meanwhile we have time for just a little more walking practise........

Terry's original Camino boots finally wore out, so we are both wearing new boots bought last year. Same make and style - Hi-Tec lightweight, waterproofed leather. A sponge with wax proofer will keep them treated on the Camino.

Plans for walking the Camino Inglés in 2011

2010-11-20T18:08:00.000Z

Our plans are beginning to work out. We have our return tickets booked to Spain, as well as first and last night acommodation. Now we have to complete our plans for reaching Ferrol as well as thinking through our training and packing needs. Further reports on these can be found at Training for Pilgrimage.

For our Return to the Camino in 2010 see previous posts below

Planning for 2011

2010-07-23T16:35:00.000+01:00

So having completed this year's walk along part of the Camino we are now preparing for next year. We hope to travel to Santander again, then by FEVE to Oviedo and on to Ferrol to walk the Camino Inglés.
We will be keeping up with our walking here, as training for next year, and you can follow our progress at Training for Pilgrimage.

Ribadesella to Santander

2010-06-08T09:58:00.001+01:00

Wednesday 19th:
Today we have to go back to Santander to catch the ferry home.
Breakfast and bocadillos again ('same as usual?' said the bar-tender), then to the FEVE for the last time. There were 3 Australians and a New Zealander also waiting for the train. They had been walking together, although not as pilgrims.
There was an itinerent on the train who was happy to chat. When he got off he shook Terry's hand and kissed mine!!
So into Santander with a little time to look around before tomorrow's ferry. We visited the Cathedral and its crypt. Then we took the local bus to the Sardineros and El Camello beaches, where Valerie went for a paddle.

Santander Cathedral

The cloisters

The Cathedral from

the cloisters

The beaches

Nueva to Ribadesella

2010-05-22T15:50:00.000+01:00

Tuesday 18th:
Breakfast, and bocadillos for lunch again, from the bar then back to the FEVE to return to Nueva for today's walk back to Ribadesella. We collected a tin of peaches from the general store and set off out of Nueva towards Piñeres de Pria. There we climbed up the hill to the church of San Pedro de Pria where we sat in the sun and ate our lunch, with lizards running around on the stone wall beside us. The view from the church is wonderful. The camino then goes downhill to the Río Aguamía which still can be crossed by the ancient bridge. After Torriellu the track follows the Camino Antiguo and finally reaches Ribadesella.

San Pedro

View fromSan Pedro

Ancient bridge

Río Aguamía

Camino Antiguo

Looking back -
outskirts of
Ribadesella

Celorio to Nueva de Llanes

2010-05-22T15:48:00.000+01:00

Monday 17th:
After breakfast in the bar we walked to the station and caught the FEVE to Celorio, eastwards towards Llanes. We took our bocadillos for lunch with us, wrapped in tin-foil, from the bar.
The weather was sunny and much warmer, a lovely day for walking. Just past Barro the Church of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores can be seen across the ría. The roadman cleared a way through his workings for us with his digger; very helpful. Further on near Niembro there was a spectacular view across fields to the mountains. The Camino comes downhill to the monastery of San Antolin, now deserted, and passes alongside the beach before turning inland again. There is a track through the woods near Naves before arriving in Nueva. After a café con leche and another bocadillo we went into the general store where they sell everything. Scythe blades to cans of peaches. They used their 'sello' for the Fiesta del Cristo del Amparo to stamp the pilgrim's passport for us.
We caught the late afternoon train back to Ribadesella. Including walking to and from the station (3km)we walked 19.8km today. The new signs on the Camino make it about 16km now, rather than the 12km given in the guide, for this section.

Church near Barro

Mountain view

Above San Antolin

Natural arch, San Antolin

The Camino near Naves

FEVE coming into the
station at Nueva

Ribadesella: Caves, Orchids and Dinosaurs

2010-05-22T15:37:00.000+01:00

Sunday 16th:
Following breakfast, in the bar on the corner near the hotel, we walked the short distance to the caves. A long walk through the underground caverns led to the cave paintings - mostly horses and deer. Well worth the visit which took about 1 hour.

After visiting the Caves of Tito Bustillo and seeing the cave paintings (no photography allowed) we walked out along the Camino towards Leces. At the roundabout with the boat we turned right off the Camino, towards Tereñes, and walked up the steep hill into the village. Following a very welcome Coca Cola in the bar we then followed their directions turning sharp right and back towards Ribadesella. This led us along the tops of the cliffs past the lighthouse, then down through the woods. We saw a very rare orchid at the side of the track and went on to see the dinosaur footprints in the cliffs at Punta El Pozu.

Boat on a roundabout

Cliffs above El Pozu looking towards the Hermitage

Dinosaur footprints on the cliff face

Dinosaur print on a rock

Serapias lingua -
tongue orchid

Ribadesella photos

2010-05-15T10:35:00.003+01:00

The Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) is another old palacio, not far from the Post Office, and they stamped our credentiales there.

Ribadesella - food and accomodation

2010-05-15T10:35:00.001+01:00

The Hotel Covadonga is an old building. Our room at the back had an enclosed balcony like these at the front, with the addition of the washing line.
We were shown the bar/restaurant which is open from June. Quite amazing! with its 'ship' bar and wall decorations.

We ate most of our meals in the Meson/Restaurante 'La Goleta' on Calle Gran Via de Agustin Arguelles. They do an excellent Fabada Asturiana and an equally good Garlic Chicken.

Hotel Covadonga;

'Ship' bar;

Swordfish and old photos.

Ribadesella - town and Hermitage

2010-05-15T10:34:00.002+01:00

Afternoon

We walked through town, past the Post Office, and having moved our rucksacks to the Hotel Covadonga we walked up to the Hermitage, the seafarers chapel on the cliff top. There are ships hanging on the inside wall. The cliffs are steep and the chapel area is protected by a wall.

We also visited the church of Sta Maria Magdalena with its breath-taking painted ceiling.

Post Office,
formerly a palacio

Cliff view

Inside the Hermitage
The Hermitage

Santa Maria Magdalena
Painted ceiling
and
West door

Ribadesella

2010-05-15T10:34:00.001+01:00

Saturday 15th
In the morning we walked over the river bridge to the Caves of Tito Bustillo where there are prehistoric cave paintings. A footbridge leads to the entrance, through the little museum area. The earliest entry we could have was for Sunday morning. We booked in and decided that we would then walk on out of Ribadesella on Sunday afternoon for a short distance.

The railway line runs along the road near the bus station and terminates. The 'Costa Verde' was full of people, presumably on a day trip. The 'blue' train we saw, from the FEVE, was the tour train with sleeping compartments.

Tineo to Ribadesella

2010-05-15T10:32:00.001+01:00

Friday 14th:
Before leaving Tineo we had time for a last walk round and a café con leche. The church sadly was locked, but we did find the etapa sign showing where we might have gone.

Near Grado the river, FEVE and road run close together. The water level has risen since we passed here earlier in the week. If you look closely you can see the bushes in the water.
The bus ride to Oviedo takes about 2 hours so we had time for lunch in the bus station there. Platos Combinados are really good, we had the 'National'. We had one between us and they brought a spare knife and fork. Then we caught another bus to Ribadesella, the direct one not via Arriondas.
We called in a bar near the bus station and were given directions to a good pension (Pension Arbidel) with a special rate for pilgrims. They can only take us for one night so we booked in. Then as it had finally stopped raining, we went for a walk. The Capilla de Santa Ana is part way up a hill on a side street and dates from the 16th century. We found the Hotel Covadonga, also special rates, and have booked in there for tomorrow night. There is a lot to see here in Ribadesella.
We will then have 3 or 4 days on the Camino del Norte before we have to get back to Santander for the ferry.

Church doorway

Etapa sign
Tineo to Pola de Allande

Railway, river and road run together (left to right) near Grado

Capilla de Santa Ana, Ribadesella

Tineo 2

2010-05-15T10:31:00.001+01:00

Thursday 13th continued:
The views of the mountains through the clouds are fantastic, and yes there is snow on the far ones. There are several hórreos (grain stores), which are all now protected in Spain.

The weather forecast helped us to decide that it would be sensible to return to the coast, and walk part of the Norte, rather than continuing on the Primitivo. A decision re-inforced by the snowflakes drifting in the wind during the afternoon.

We went to check bus times and found the brand new bus station, opened in March this year. Rather than leave late this afternoon we will go on the bus which leaves mid-morning tomorrow for Oviedo and then head for the coast.
Terry took a photo looking towards the Camino, from the play area on the bus station roof. The main entrance is at the far side of the circular blue building, and the buses pull in down below.

We met 2 other pilgrims looking for a meal so sent them to the Restaurant Tineo where we ate last night. (Same owner as our pension). It is a short distance past where the Camino turns sharply uphill to the right. Really good food and good value. We ate there both nights we were in Tineo. We had our breakfasts, and bocadillos for lunch, in the café opposite the Assembly Rooms where they were so helpful phoning about rooms for us on Wednesday.

Mountains

Hórreo

Bus station

Camino - follows the tree line just below the woods

Tineo

2010-05-13T10:23:00.001+01:00

A good night's sleep in a warm bed and also clean clothes. The temperature is hovering between 3 and 5C and the forecast is for more bad weather in the next few days. We have to decide whether it is right to go on further into the mountains. Today (Thursday 13th) we will look around Tineo.

Tineo itself is very interesting. The original Town Hall, built in the early 19th century, was converted into the Assembly Rooms in the early 20th century and was opposite the café we visited on our way into town. The old tower is at the back of the town hall and there are chickens in the old stables on the street at the side.

Our sellos came from the Rents Department at the 'new' Town Hall, they were only too pleased to help us. There is a Roman milestone displayed on the staircase. There are a number of computers there too, free to use so we spent a short time there with a computer each.

The Assembly Rooms

The Town Hall

Roman stone

The old tower

(below)

Stables

Chickens in the stable

La Espina to Tineo

2010-05-13T10:18:00.000+01:00

Wednesday 12th:
A very long 15km. Mud, water and more rain.
Shortly after leaving La Espina we passed the Capilla de Cristo de los Afligadores and turned to the right between it and the hórreo.

The guide warns of the wet track near El Pedregal, but it was passable with care. We had much needed cafe con leche at the cafe in El Pedregal and then walked on. This was supposed to be the half way point. It might have been in kms but the first part had taken 2 hours, the second took about 3 hours before we arrived in Tineo. The track was very muddy with deep ruts, but again we managed by walking carefully along the side and leaning on our sticks. A group of horse breeders passed us at one point along the track.

We nearly lost the Way in Santa Eulalia (3.7kms before Tineo) but were redirected back onto the Camino with the warning that it was 'feo'. It was!! The last patch of mud, 2km before Tineo, was impassable so we copied others and walked in the field side over the barbed wire for a few yards. It kept our feet dry, the couple behind us had water in their boots.

We arrived in Tineo and found a bar and some lunch. The rain had stopped but the temperature was still very low. We have found a fantastic, warm pension (Pension Tineo), recommended and phoned up by the café-bar owner. Showered and washed our clothes and had a good nights sleep. Now we have found the internet cafe so have been able to put up some record of the past week.

Chapel and hórreo at La Pereda

The track near El Pedregal

with mojon

horses on track

muddy puddles

Outskirts of Tineo

Capilla de San Roque
and
Pilgrim sculpture

Salas to La Espina via Bodenaya

2010-05-13T10:11:00.000+01:00

Tuesday 11th:
The track through the woods is beautiful. The rain continued and was very heavy at times. There was running water on the track in places and also some very muddy patches and puddles. Walking round the edge and leaning on our sticks was effective.

The new road has meant that the Camino has been diverted and the stage is now much longer between Salas and Tineo. It is about 12km now between Salas and La Espina, with well signed diversions near Bodenaya up off the track and alongside the roadworks.

We walked into Bodenaya in the pouring rain and stopped under the shelter of the albergue for a snack bar and some water. (The albergue opens at 2.00pm.) Alejandro came out while we were there and we had a good chat. He offered us a very welcome cafe con leche and didn´t really expect a donation, but he got one anyway. The albergue is now his full time job. Then on to La Espina.

Before Bodenaya the rain was heavy but felt warm but it turned really cold afterwards. We arrived in La Espina cold (5C), and tired. We had been through plenty of mud and water but kept our feet dry OK. Ate in the little hotel (a very good meal) and went to bed. Damp!! Remembering the tip about ponchos Valerie slept with hers rolled round her to keep warm. A good thing that it had dried out quickly. Terry´s bed was OK. It was still raining next morning but not so hard. Breakfast was in the hotel and then we set off for Tineo, still in our wet weather gear with plenty of layers underneath as it was only 4C!!!

Photos:

Camino map signs show gradients

Leaving Salas

Camino in woods above Salas

Bodenaya albergue

Salas

2010-05-13T10:08:00.000+01:00

Monday 10th:
Today is probably the warmest we have had but still with heavy showers. We have reached Salas, this time on the ALSA bus which came through Grado at 9.40am. From the bus windows we can see that there is an awful lot of water about both in the rivers and out of them. We stayed in the Hotel Soto, like Terry did last year, and ate in the cafe El Campo. (Open 11.00am until midnight and will serve you at any time.) Empanada for lunch and steak with peppers, ensalada mixta and papas bravas for supper.
Having washed our clothes, and hung them out on the hotel washing line, we spent time looking in the lovely old collegiate church of Santa Maria, around the old town and along the river side. The new road on stilts is visible round the hillside. The old chapel of San Roque is in the street behind the Hotel Soto.
We looked into the Hotel Castillo de Valdes-Salas, built around a central courtyard. At the nearby Tourist Office there was a notice about the new Albergue at Urbanizacíon La Veiga in Salas, which replaces both the old Salas albergue and the one at Godán.
Again we have been well looked after and everyone has been very kind and helpful.
It wasn´t raining when we arrived, although still chilly the sun was shining. Next morning was a different story. Having had breakfast in the café near the church we walked out under the archway and onto the Camino in full wet weather gear.

Photos:
Church from hotel window
Water stoup
Reredos
Riverside
Chapel
Tower from river
Café, archway and rear of palacio
Courtyard

Oviedo to Grado

2010-05-13T10:07:00.000+01:00

People here are so kind. Our train was due to leave Oviedo just after 1.30pm so we went into the station bar/café to look for food. They did not really start serving until 1pm, but hearing that we would 'just have time to eat it' they cooked for us half an hour early. Maybe if they had been busy they could not have done so, but we were very grateful and said so. A good reasonably priced meal for anyone needing something on a Sunday when so many places are closed. (Tapas/bocadillos if no hot meals available.)
When we arrived in Grado the sun was shining, but out of the sun it is still cold with snow visible on the mountains when the cloud lifts.
We walked along the Camino, on the main road, from the station through to the edge of town. The hostel that Terry stayed in was closed and for sale but there was a place opposite (Hotel Autobar) which gives special rates to pilgrims.
We had time to look around the old town which Terry missed last year as the Camino signs do not take you right into town. We passed the Capilla (chapel) de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores. Then we had a good meal in the Café Moscon, at the side of the Registro Civil.

Photos - Grado:

Snow on the mountains;

Capilla de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores; shell carved in the canopy over the side door

Oviedo 3

2010-05-13T10:05:00.002+01:00

Saturday 8th: continued
We arrived here on Wednesday by FEVE and then have had to spend 4 nights here, so are very behind-hand. Tomorrow (Sunday) we go to Grado by FEVE again and will walk into town to the hostal Terry stayed in last year.
The weather is still cold and the showers are very heavy. In the sun the temperature creeps up to about 10-11C. However we have been well looked after here, with plenty of blankets.
The Café La Regenta is very good, raciones any time and you can share the Platos Combinados even if you only have one. They will happily bring 2 sets of cutlery and a spare plate. Lovely Tortillas and Ensaladas Mixtas. For those on a tight budget - if you eat at the bar it is cheaper than at an inside table and much cheaper than the outside terrace. (Closed Sundays)

When we came out of the Cathedral on Saturday there were families on their way to a First Communion service in the church.
We walked round to one of the other squares and found the bronze statue of the milk-girl and her donkey.
As we came back past the Cathedral the gaiteros were gathering in the square. We saw the couple walking up to join them from our bedroom window.

Oviedo 2

2010-05-13T10:05:00.001+01:00

Thursday 6th - Saturday 8th:
First need was for an extra layer of warm clothing. Our friendly landlady sent Valerie to the cheaper shops, however passing the market stalls provided two good thick fleeces and also a pair of undertrousers for Terry. Valerie has her Trekmates which were meant for pyjamas if needed but are fulfilling their original function. We are now wearing 5 layers! which is OK. The temperature is still in single figures and the locals are complaining. Our landlady is apologising that the heating in the building is off but we are quite warm inside.
We went to the Cathedral and then through the door into the Cámara Santa where Valerie had her Credential stamped. Terry now has a new Credential from the Cámara Santa for this year. We visited the museum as well as the Cámara Santa itself where the Sudarium is kept. (The head-cloth from Jesus' tomb) This is the original church on the site and has the twelve Apostles carved in pairs as pillars. (No photos as photography is forbidden)

Photos:

Cámara Santa

South side of the Cathedral
and Cámara Santa

Oviedo 1

2010-05-13T10:04:00.002+01:00

The shell sign in the pavement, near our hotel, was pointing out of Oviedo to the Camino del Norte.
The Romanesque church is next to the Cathedral. There is a small carving of a Roman soldier in a niche near the door and the old arches are in the wall round on the Calle Sta Ana.

Llanes to Oviedo

2010-05-13T10:04:00.001+01:00

Wednesday 5th:
We left Llanes on the mid-morning FEVE for Oviedo. There is snow on the higher mountains and the rivers are in full flood. Earlier in the week, in some areas, the snowploughs were out. The weather is still forecast to be cloudy and wet.
It was bitterly cold when we arrived in Oviedo and walked into town. Last year Terry stayed in a pension here, near the Cathedral, so we went there again. A late lunch and then a siesta was the plan. Valerie wants to visit the Cámara Santa and the Cathedral of San Salvador, the starting point of the Camino Primitivo. Also there is a saying that 'He who goes to the servant, without going to the Master first, goes to the created and not the Creator'.

Photos:

Snow on the mountains near Oviedo

Cathedral of San Salvador, Oviedo

Llanes 2

2010-05-13T10:03:00.000+01:00

Tuesday 4th: Afternoon
There is still a fairly strong wind and the sea is crashing up the cliff sides. We walked along the cliff path and to our surprise and delight saw the water-spouts. Apparently these are famous and people come specially to see them, but are usually disappointed as the conditions have to be just right. We both took several photos and Terry managed to catch the double one on his camera (bottom right).

Photos:
Cliffs and sea near Llanes

You can see the spouts (bufones in Spanish) and also water coming out of the lower holes on the cliff side.

Santander to Llanes

2010-05-04T09:55:00.000+01:00

Monday 3rd:
Llanes: we arrived here on the FEVE from Santander at 18.30. It is quite cold and there are roadworks right along the town centre with walkways round. (This turned out to be one of the features of our walk along the Camino this year). We have a nice quiet room, pre-booked as a first night off the ferry and have arranged to stay an extra night so I see a little of the Camino del Norte at Llanes itself.

Tuesday 4th: Morning
We are looking around Llanes today before going on to Oviedo tomorrow. The church has the most beautifully carved doorway and there was snow visible in the mountains behind it. There has been heavy snow in Spain. We will have to see what is happening later in the week!!

Plymouth to Santander

2010-05-04T09:54:00.000+01:00

We were taken to Plymouth and had an easy ferry crossing to Santander. The extra we paid for a cabin was worthwhile as the photo taken through the port-hole shows.
On arriving in Santander we soon found the first marker in the pavement near the ferry port. However we were taking the FEVE to Llanes so headed for the station.

Pilgrim's Passport/Credential

2010-04-30T14:22:00.000+01:00

Well I got my Cathedral stamp, from the bookshop. They were really helpful and interested and remembered stamping Terry's credential last year. I bought an Exeter Cathedral sticker badge to go alongside the stamp rather than the cloth one like Terry has sewn on his rucksack.
We both have the (blue) Camino Forum and (red) Camino de Santiago/Camino de Europa badges on our packs and a small cockle shell on our hats. Our packing is done and our new Crocs have arrived in the post. They are rest day and after the day's walk footwear.
Off for a very short walk before it rains, without our packs today as we are calling it a rest day. Last, not very long, walk with packs tomorrow weather permitting. We don't mind getting wet on the Camino but would rather keep dry before we set off.

Exeter to Santander

2010-04-29T09:57:00.000+01:00

Exeter today - and Valerie hopes to get a stamp from the Cathedral in her Credential (Pilgrim's Passport). Then back home, it is en route, before catching the ferry from Plymouth to Santander. Terry intends to ask for a new Credential in Oviedo and start stamping it from there having started in Exeter last year.

Local tracks

2010-03-27T14:54:00.000Z

As you can see the paths/tracks near home are very similar to some on the Camino. Good for practise. Not long to wait now before we set off for Spain, leaving the family to 'hold the fort' here at home.

If you want to read about our preparation click on the title for this post or go to
Training for Pilgrimage

Return to the Primitivo

2010-03-17T16:59:00.000Z

Only a few weeks now until we both go out to Spain to walk part of the Camino Primitivo together. We want to take time to visit some of the places which Terry did not have time to go to, or were closed as he went through last year. So we do not plan to go all the way to Santiago this year. We hope to do that in 2011.

Terry took this photo of the old paved Way at El Morriendo, between Grado and Salas, in May last year. It will be a year, almost to the day, when we are there together.

You can read about Terry's Pilgrimage in 2009 in his blog Walk to Compostela